This is a work in progress –
RV Maintenance Items
- Hot Water Tank Anode Rod: There is a good description from the Tumbleweed blog. Some people replace them annually, others just check them and replace if needed – something like if you see metal? (3/2015) I’ve found out Grand Design (maybe others also) use a water heater that does not require an Anode. Has something to do with using brass parts.
- Holding Tanks: Found a good blog post on the topic over at Rv Travels with Karen and Al. I will have to go back and read it all the way through.
- Water Filters: Some use an outside filter to get the larger stuff out, along with a second inside filter. Seems folks look to change them every three months and use a sticker to record when last changed. Some change them when the water pressure drops.
- Turn Water Off: Not really a maintenance issue but I’ve read where many turn the water off when gone from the campsite. One common cause of overflow is the toilet valve failing allowing the bowl to fill up and overflow.
- Replacing a water heater thermostat. There are two, one for the electric side and one for the gas side.
- Rubber roof annual cleaning and reconditioning. Also have heard about checking all the sealant. Heard you had to check the roof more often if you generally park under trees. (4/2015)
- Eternabond is tape that I read about in a blog called RV Travels with Karen and Al. (5/23/15)
- Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant: Used to repair flat portions of roof.
- Replacing vents caps – blog post. Never knew Lowes carries RV parts. In a residential home I know a leading cause of roof leaks are the seals around plumbing vent pipes going bad. They have to be replace maybe every 10 to 15 years on a house.
- Lighting: “If you have any clearance lights on the front cap make sure those are well sealed. Often they are attached to the rigs with just a rubber gasket between the light and the cap which deteriorates over time”. Cut and pasted this out of the Meandering Maddox’s Blog. Jim and Judy’s blog is worth reading start to finish. They workcamped a hundred miles from their sticks and bricks home before selling it. (4/2015)
- Link to maintaining RV batteries.
- Fridge: Make sure and use high pressure air to blow the dust out underneath.
- May have to vacuum the air conditioner vents outside if there are a lot of cotton wood trees.
- With the EZ lube bearings you can add grease without taking the assembly apart BUT the wheels should be spinning when adding grease.
- Running gear maintenance needs to be done at least every 10K miles or annually (This is what Dexter recommends), especially if your rig is anywhere near its GVWR. Check your owners manual. Here is a great post on replaces shackles and bushings. Also repacking bearings. Has good photos of what each part is.
Notes and Repair Shops:
- Seems like a good idea to consider if a manufacturer has a lot of dealers scattered around the country. That way you can have parts shipped ahead in case a dealer has to order them to be installed.
- Here is a good list – sometimes I should not try and re-invent the wheel. In this case, someone has already come up with a good list.
- Per Rvgeeks, use baby powder on slide seals because it does not attract dust. The have been using it on their Newmar for seven years at the advice of Newmar.
- A-Z Mobile RV Inc. – Needed a place to park this link. A reader says they are the best. May make use of them once we get a rig or when in town for visits.
- Paul’s Auto and RV: Reader explorRVistas recommends them for mobile tech work. They move the company between Fort Meyers and Traverse City Michigan.
Truck Maintenance Items
- Hitch: Make sure and check the mounting bolts for tightness. Not sure how often. (3/2015)
- Here is a PDF for diesel care tips from Ford.