Just getting started. Keeping notes here for now.
I too am in the research phase. My interests are in the full time category, so I’m looking at heavier units than weekender and vacation fivers. There is an air hitch called ET Hitch and it is on the robust side for higher pin and towing weights. Those following your site might want to take a look if they’re interested in another option. ethitch.com
Enjoy your write ups too – probably a number of us out here getting some good info from your research.
Bill from the RV Dreams Forum has towed over 100,000 miles and in 2016 posted this recommendation:
“MORryde rubber pin box with a Comfort Ride “air” hitch in the truck. Best of both worlds. MORryde for “chucking” elimination and the Comfort Ride to take care of the vertical impacts to protect the trailer frame along with the truck. http://www.comfortridehitch.com/
If the cost of the Comfort Ride were an issue, than a Curt Q-24 still with the MORryde rubber pin box. The Q-24 is the best “fixed” hitch I’ve ever towed with and I’ve had a bunch of them in the same truck looking for the one I like. Be sure and have the truck ordered with the 5th wheel hitch mounting points. Then the Curt is a “drop in” if you go that way. BTW, the Comfort Ride is less expensive then the Trailer Saver and far less complicated.”
Truck – I’ll be adding study topics as I go.
- Already decided on a dual wheel 4×4 extended cab. – I’ll list the reasons later.
- Here is a nice blog post by RV Dreams describing two types of truck air brakes and how to use them.
- Need to research tires along with what is going on the trailer.
- Brake controls.
- Air brakes or whatever – for going down mountains. (Have learned the newer dually one-tons come with an exhaust brake).
- From a trusted blog post: All the 2011 and forward trucks have very high bed rails. The trailer to truck bedrail issue is a bigger one than most realize; that is until they run the bed rails of the truck into the trailer. So to go to a hauler bed to address this issue one needs more rear axle capacity when the trailer pin weight gets into the high 3,000’s or even low 4,000’s and that is quite possible with a trailer even lighter than 20K. Simply stated 5K won’t handle the front axle loads. Look more for 5,600#+. That 600# does make a difference. (BTW, if the hitch is properly installed almost no weight from the 5er goes on the front axle but most other carried items do impact the front axle.) That said the weight allowance for the bed and possibly an aux fuel tank should be taken into consideration if one is “designing” a tow vehicle. Air ride hitches also will add over 350# to the rear axle. All these items add up on the rear axle loads.
- The F350 in 2016 at least, can come with a wide front end as an option. This is like the F450 and allows for a better turning radius. I can see that being important when at least backing into sites.
- This forum post has a lot to think about: “Yes, the GVWR of the 360IBL is 14,000.. always ignore the pin weight number the mfg lists… they are way off. 5th wheel pin weights will be 20%-25% of trailer weight… always assume GVWR, 25% pin weight is 3,500… which is over your payload. Even if you assume 20% that is 2,800 lbs, which by the time you add in hitch weight and the family will get very tight if even possible.”