- I’m leaning towards the Morryde suspension.
- Can use their pin box for chucking and suspension for the up and down movement.
- According to a trusted source “The only real axle system normally available for RV’s that allows true wheel alignment, like a car, is the MOR/ryde IS axle system. I had this retrofitted to my first big 5er. Worth every penny. It is standard on NH trailers. Comes in various sized 7-8-9K, etc. Most rigs have two 8 K’s or three 7Ks “depending.
- Research may turn into a Correct Trac vrs Morryde.
- Here is an answer when I asked someone with experience about the Mor/ryde 4000 and 3000 system compared to the IS (independent system):
- The MOR/ryde 3000-4000 system improves the spring suspensions but there is still one major problem: springs. While expensive, the IS is simply the only way to cure the interaction problem with springs… The improvement is rather dramatic and can actually be felt (or actually not felt) in the truck.
- Here is a post where someone’s shackles broke. I’m not sure yet what all the suspension parts are. Apparently this is prevented by having parts that can be lubricated such as wet bolts. I think maybe the leaf springs attach to the shackle which is bolted to the frame. But not sure yet.
- Here is April 2016 I read two posts on blogs I follow where their shackles failed. Replaced with heavier duty shackles and greaseable bolts. . Here are the links for the blogs: ExploRVistas and Camper Chronicles.(Good diagram at Camper Chronicles)
- Heavy duty shackles are the way to go. I can see why some might buy an older trailer because they plan to upgrade suspension anyway. Why buy new and weight for something to break before upgrading.
- Also need to be able to grease the bolts which a must per someone that knows.
- Here is a great blog post concerning maintenance. The photos are also great examples explaining bushings, shackles, greasing bearings, wet bolts and equalizers.
- For sure going to have to support the suspension and a lot more the unit comes with and any anticipated upgrades that come later.
- Here is the answer I received from an experienced person:
- For many reasons I don’t recommend going lighter than 16,500 or really 18,500 trailer weight. You can upgrade a bigger frame, but if you go light you can’t upgrade the suspension as the frame won’t take it… if you’re going to travel it just “is what it is.” Karen and I plan to pull our trailer all over the country rather than buy it and sit in it for a year at a time.
- Look up the 10” G- Channel by MORryde used in the Vilano 5th wheel.
- Leaning towards a 12″ I beam minimum. Augusta RV’s Ambition uses a slightly thicker piece of steel. That is a consideration as well. I know most say having a box frame is best. Also need to pay attention to the portion of the frame where slides are connected.
- This could be the best quotation I could find on the forums regarding frame size “I get a kick out of everybody measuring the frames of the trailers to determine whether a trailer is good or not. — There are many things that all have to come together for a good RV — The question is……does the particular rv have a history of frame failure? If not then it’s a mute point. Thankfully frame issues are few and far between on the full time 5th wheels —.” (Dave&ginny at IRV2.com)